Tuesday, March 27, 2012

0044 On30 Wasatch & Jordan Valley RR - Make Sawdust!

Ok, let's build the Temple Square section of the layout.  This is an odd shaped frame structure that will be mounted to the wall with a backdrop.  It is completely flat and no more than one foot deep.

We'll cut some like boards for both sections, but the goal is to get the left side finished first.

 Some of the tools I'll need are a square, a pen and a measuring tape.  I've already got the chop saw ready.

 We'll pick two straight 1x3 timbers for the frame.

 Each board comes with this UPC code stapled into the wood.  If you ever hit one of these staples with the saw, it will throw the staple right into your eye and you will be blinded for life.  Ask Bill Cosby...he knows.

 Putting on my safety glasses and using a pair of needle nosed pliers I pull the UPC staples out of the boards and throw them away.

 Keeping my safety glasses on (yes, I wear them religiously!) I slice off the ends of the long boards (which were rough) and get it ready to measure.

 I measured a 5' 1/2" cut and sawed both boards.  These will be the back of the sections.

 We need two one foot sections for either end, so I'll measure and cut those.

 The other ends (that meet) are 6' 1/2" and I cut them as well.

 I place the boards where they will go for Section 1 and measured again to make sure it is 5' 2" total.  It is.  Odd...nothing works out like that for me.

 Battery operated screwdriver/drills are incredible.  I have four of these with the batteries to match.  Today I'm using a countersink/driver combo tool that allows you to drill a countersink hole, then flip to the screwdriver head and put in the screw.  Saw my friend Packrat Paul using this gadget and begged him to tell me where he got it.  Went to Lowe's and bought it that weekend.

 Supplies, other than lumber, will be carpenter's glue, 1 1/4" dry wall screws (not pictured) and 1 5/8" drywall screws.

 To build the corners I first pre-drilled and countersunk two holes.

 Using glue and the 1 5/8" drywall screws I attached the left hand one foot board and the right hand 6.5" board.  The table is a great workspace and helps to keep you off the floor and level in your construction.  It also helps your back.  Using the glue and the screws gives you a heavily fastened corner that will endure direct hits (common in tight layouts).

 Next I cut out the middle pieces that will help hold the front to the sections.

 Using glue and screws, I installed all the boards to the back board.

 Here is a close up of the conutersunk holes.

 There!  All are square and tight.  You'll notice that some of the boards aren't hitting the surface of the table.  Well, it appears that this table has warped a bit.  Not good.

 Let's build the left hand side of the section first.  There is a curve on the top left.  This is to prevent losing your genitals when you walk into the room.  Never allow sharp corners in an aisle way.  I cut and screwed a board in, leaving the left hand side open.  We'll work with that later.

I put in a small chock block and mounted another board at a slightly different angle.  These boards won't be seen as the fascia will cover them, but they do need to be strong as they will get bumped.

More tomorrow!


1.  Glue and screw corners and places that could suffer damage from impact.  This makes an incredibly strong joint.
2.  A countersink/screwdriver switchable attachment increases your construction speed and keeps you from having to have extra tools laying around.
3.  Bring your work up to you by using a pop up table to work on.

1 comment:

  1. Scott,

    Great post. A suggestion on speeding things up: I use my corded drill when drilling a large number of holes because it's RPM speed is 25% faster than my cordless drill. This is true for most corded vs cordless drills. It also saves cycles on my battery packs so I don't have to replace them as often. Yes, using an extension cord is a bit of a pain.



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