Airbrush Training at Scott's Basement

My friend Mark and his son Eric are budding model builders, as is my daughter Taylor.  They have all been very interested in learning how to airbrush, so on New Year's Eve I brought them down to the basement for some hands on experience.

Taylor and I set up a large, heavy table in the basement and equipped it with airbruses, tape, paint, models, gloves, masks and other tools.

Eric here likes to build rockets and airplanes.  Doesn't matter to me...sooner or later we'll convert him to trains when he realizes the planes don't move!

We hooked up the compressor and got out the brand new Paasche Model H external mix single action brush.  After some training on how to paint, we washed and dried several models and each took a turn giving it a coat of paint.  Mark is going to buy one for them to use.

Sorry I didn't take more pictures.  It was a holiday and we just wanted to have fun.

Wizdom:

1.  If you don't know how to do something, such as airbrushing, just ask someone that does know to show you how.
2.  Actually doing it will help get rid of fears and anxiety about airbrushing.  Get your hands dirty!
3.  You don't need a fancy booth or expensive dual action, internal mix brush to get started.  Keep it simple!

Happy Anniversary to the Model Railroader's Notebook!

Hi Folks!

Yesterday was the 15th Anniversary of the Model Railroader's Notebook and we just posted our 500th post on the blog!  Wow!  Has it been that long?

The MRN started as a website years ago for me to keep track of links and photos.  We suffered a crash and lost the website information.  Over the years I've replaced some of it.  I switched to blogging several years ago and find it much easier to keep track of.  Just have to post every day!

So thanks for following along, or finding us during a search for something.  I'm hoping we've helped you in your model train adventure!

Here's to 15 more years!

Scott Perry
Life Long Model Railroader

Mining Information Resources

I'm going to build this page on mining resources and links.  Over time I'll populate it but for right now we'll start with this one.

Special thanks to the legendary On30 man Geoff Potter...who I think is awesome!

The design of mine structures (1912)

https://archive.org/details/designminestruc02ketcgoog

Look for updates from time to time!

Rick's Ramp Project 02 - Design

We have the basic idea of what we want, now let's design it.

After looking at prototype photos, I usually grab my sketch pad first.  I keep sketch paper and this handy sketching set in my desk drawer.

Using an HO scaled rule, I'll figure out or estimate the dimensions and begin drawing.

Here is the finished sketch.  I inked it after drawing it with pencil.  I've decided to use more "bents" or pilings for this so that it will look more robust and theoretically hold more weight.  One prototype photo I saw had square timbers, but I think I like the look of the pilings better.  The drawing was sent to Rick who said "proceed!"

One critical dimension needs to be checked, and that is the height of the platform.  For this I use the NMRA standards which are free on the internet.

NMRA Standards

When we use the standards, let's look at the "classic" standards which would cover out time period.  Dimension "E" is what we are after, which is the height of a platform.  We look up E and HO, and we are given 18/32" or 14mm.

I gave estimated dimensions for lumber, but will check this against my available supply and will use what I have.  Plastic may be substituted instead of wood for some parts.

Ok, we have a plan.   Now we need to check for materials, and most likely, build a jig for the pilings.

Wizdom:

1.  Sketch out your ideas if you can.  It gives you a better feel for the model.
2.  Items like ramps don't need to be precision made, or even perfectly copying a prototype, but that is up to you.
3.  When making a model for someone else, get their buy in as to what you are building constantly through the project so that you can build what they are expecting.
4.  You don't have to have precision scale drawing to build a small model.  Rough drawings or even just a photograph can be enough to get you started.

Rick's Ramp Project 01 - Project Scope

It is a long time custom in model railroading to build a model for a friend's layout.  Partly this is out of necessity as a layout, even a small one, can have hundred of structures.  It is also a way to feel a part of the railroad, especially when your friend is a very long way away...like 2,315 miles to be exact.  I asked my long time model train friend Rick Wade to allow me to contribute to his layout.

Here is the project Rick came up with.  He needs a loading platform on his 1960's HO scale L&N Richlawn Railroad.  We can do that!

Scott,

I sure could use a timber freight platform similar to below except  where the ladder on the left is would be left off so that a truck could back up to the platform.  On the right instead of the narrow ramp perhaps the ramp would be as wide as the platform?  It should be boxcar door height (of course) and can be any wood construction you desire - use your imagination!   To set the stage:  The time period is the 1960's and the platform is still used and showing some age (but not falling down).   Thanks!

Scott,  nope - dimensions aren't critical. 

This could be a fun, one night project.  Ramps like these are common all over the United States.  Once upon a time they were used very heavily as LCL, or Less than Car Load traffic was common.  In the 1960's they were still pretty common, although they were mostly going into a state of disrepair.  Usually made with very heavy timber stock and nut/bolt/washer assemblies, they were hardy structures that could last well beyond their usefulness.  More modern ramps are cast in concrete.  I've got some photos in my collection of these and will dig them up.

As with any model I build...STUDY THE PROTOTYPE FIRST!

Here are some links to prototypes:

 
http://elkorose.schopine.com/beowawe/020217beo_dee4_small.JPG
http://www.trainsarefun.com/lirr/medford/27-Station-Medford-NP-Boxcar-Team-Track-Loading-Dock-1969_small.jpg
http://www.gingerb.com/CNJ%20PRR%20Buttonwood%20Piggyback%20Ramp%20JUN%2021,%201966.jpg
http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/data/Paul%20Cutler%20III/20091122162911_NETCo%20Trailers%20Loaded.JPG
http://www.monon.monon.org/Pixs27/01-24NewAlbany03.jpg

Wow!  Surprisingly there are few photos of freight ramps on the internet, yet I know they were prevalent throughout the country!  Reminds me to take pictures of more of them as I see them and get them posted.

Creative thoughts:

I have a ton of HO scale crossties that could be used for the construction, maybe with a gravel/dirt fill.
Maybe stacked stone with a wood top?
Dirt/gravel filled ones seem to exist with just a frame around them to hold it together
Piling (trestle type) ones are common in the modeling arena and are interesting to look at

Model parameters:

HO Scale
Wood construction
Ramp as wide as the deck
Heavily used and worn, but not dilapidated
Boxcar and truck height for loading
Ladder to the side of unloading area

Ok, I think I've got the idea.  I'll make a sketch with some dimensions and get back to you.  This could be a good Saturday afternoon project.  Stay tuned!

Comments?  We'd appreciate them!  Photos as well!  Please post below.

Wizdom:

1.  When making something for someone else, get clear instructions and ask a lot of questions, then capture it in writing.

2.  First, study the prototype.  Don't base your model on another model.

3.  Photos are easily available on the internet, but you may not always find what you need.  Consider grabbing your camera and going to the real thing and shooting your own photos.

094 The Navajo Mining Railway - Priming the Depot

The inside of the depot won't be detailed, but you will still be able to see it somewhat through the windows.  This model will be about 2'8" back on my layout, so interior detail is a waste of time, as is interior detail on anything not closer than 6" to the viewer.  So what I'm going to do is to give the interior a coat of primer gray.

Here we have the model's walls, with the clapboard (outside) turned down.  All we need to do is to give it some neutral color, and I like gray.  I've tried flat black and other colors, but gray seems to be the one color that really causes the viewer's eyes to "miss it."

I could fire up the airbrush for this, but for this operation hand painting is fine.  The finish doesn't have to be perfect.  Also, I don't want to paint the surfaces that will be glued together, as it weakens the bond.  For the airbrush I'd have to tape all of those surfaces.  With a brush I just don't paint them.  Do take some time with your model and decide what needs to be painted and what doesn't.  Use a Sharpee marker and make a small dot on all surfaces not to be painted.  For this project I'm using Badger Model Flex Primer Gray, which is an acrylic.  I'm also using a stiff nylon bristle brush.

Well, something is wrong with the primer.  My guess is that it has sat on my shelf too long and has permanently separated.  Ok, no worries.  This is inside and won't be stared at, so let's just use a bottle of cheap craft paint in gray.  Paper towels are just mandatory for painting, and I always keep a roll handy with several sheets torn off and ready for spills.

Actually, that "cheap" paint, which I'll now call "inexpensive" paint gave great coverage, even with a brush!  I painted the underside of the roof panel, and three of the outside edges.  I did not paint the top because we'll put some type of roofing material on it.

Here I'm painting one of the two ends.  Notice that I did not paint the corner areas where I'll be gluing the front wall.  This will allow the adhesive a good "bite" and it will hold better than a painted surface.  I didn't paint the areas that will contact the roof assembly either.

There!  All the inside parts are painted gray.  That's enough for tonight.  I'm hoping tomorrow I can get to work on the front side as that is where the detail has to go!

Wizdom:

1.  Throw away old paint jars.  They won't improve with time.
2.  Brush painting is still an acceptable way to paint.  Take time to develop your skill by hand painting less important parts of models such as the inside of a building.
3.  Gray makes a good non-noticeable color for the interior of a structure, much better than flat black or bright colors.

Train Shop Invaded by Minions!

The thing I love most about the holidays is getting to play with the children for as long as a want.  For the mommy in the house...that is usually all day.  We got lots of craft stuff for Christmas, so let's go get messy.  The shop is the perfect place for that.

My goal: teach them the skills of model building and painting without stripping their creativity.  Give them a way to express themselves.  I never care if they like trains or not, just as long as they find creative hobbies. I want them to love art the way I do, but in their own fashion.  One serious concern I have is that kids are no longer spending time making things with their hands.  We have a Wii and a big screen tv in the next room, but it is seldom if every used as the kids would rather be in the shop.

Today, the Minions want to paint!  Both of their grandmothers paint, so they should be naturals!

 Taylor has her first real acrylic paint set from Santa, which came with a real easel and canvases.  The smock is an old T shirt of mine, and her socks are certainly Taylor's way of expressing her love for color.

 The three year old is using a less expensive acrylic set and a set of older brushes.  The smock is mandatory with this one, whom I'm hoping won't paint my tools.

Katie is learning that by mixing primary colors you can make wonderful secondary colors.  Yellow and blue make green.

Taylor is using a new pallet, and carefully opening each paint tube.  She knows to wipe off the openings and the caps to keep the paint moist.

Still, her set doesn't have every color she needs, so she is welcomed to grab something from my stock as long as she is careful with it, doesn't waste material and puts them back.  This is a lesson we all need to learn.

Katie has one disposable gloves to help keep her hands clean.  This will help keep her work tidy as well as her clothes.

Acrylics clean up with water if they haven't oxidized.  Once they set, they are relatively permanent.  A small set like this should be in every model builder's work room.  The best time to get them is right after the holidays when they go on clearance, or use your 40% off coupon at Hobby Lobby or other store.

The easel is aluminum and adjusts quickly.  It can be used on a table, or standing up.  It is lightweight with a carrying case, so it can be taken anywhere.  I've encouraged her to leave it here in the shop so that she'll come down and work with me.

Katie is making a huge mess, but is having a lot of fun.  We spent a good deal of time teaching them how to clean and store brushes as well as cleaning pallets.  They had great fun!  Spending time teaching them is fun for me, and I learn a lot as well.  My dad spent many hours teaching me these skills, so I feel I owe it to them (and you) to pass on what I know.

LOL...another present showed up in the mail the other day!  Two boxes of Q-tips.  Figuring Rick had already sent me something, I figured it must be someone else and have been racking my brain trying to figure out who it was. Turns out it was Rick again...driving me crazy.  Thanks Rick!  These come in handy for cleaning out the paint tub caps!

Wizdom:

1.  Every modeler should have a set of acrylic paints for detail work and other art needs.
2.  Take time to teach new modelers the tricks of the trade.  You didn't learn it by yourself, and neither can they.  Give!
3.  Let your kids work next to you, answer their questions and take time to show them proper techniques and care of tools.