089 The Navajo Mining Railway - Completing the Risers

I've put away the depot to dry thoroughly, so let's go back to the benchwork

Keeping your project on a moveable tray really makes it easy to move between different projects.  I keep about three or four projects going most of the time which allows for one to be drying or waiting on parts while I work on another.  It also keeps me from working on the same thing for many days straight, which I don't like to do.

Instead of using risers here, I'm going to insert 1x1 boards and attach them to the framework below.  This eliminates the problem of trying to attach the risers where the supporting braces are located.  My special thanks to Jim for pointing out the obvious!  Its funny how you can miss something so simple when trying to build, photograph and blog at the same time.  Keep your comments coming!

To keep dust down in the shop I often use a manual saw.  I'm allergic to the wood dust, so this makes my nose not run.

Using a 1" x 1" hemlock trim board, I cut it to length and glue it with Carpenter's glue to both the frame and the roadbed, then secure it with drywall screws in a countersunk hole.  Very strong joint!

I cut another riser board and do the same, checking the grade to make sure it is smooth.

After double checking the height and strength, we pronounce it good!

Using my fingernail I run it across the tops of the screws.  This one did not get tightened enough and is sticking out above the roadbed.  This could cause problems for the track, so I'll screw it down a bit more.

There!  The risers are in place at both ends of the loops.

Next, we need to check the riser on the outer loop.  We need it to be 4.5" higher than the framework.  I reset it and tighten the clamp.

This riser is set too high when I stand back and look at it.  Apparently my measurements were wrong, so I'll remeasure and reset it as well.

Setting risers is a bit of science and a bit of art.  Often I've set them precisely with measuring tools, but the natural bend of the wood didn't make a smooth grade.  Tweaking is required.

Again, I pull out the riser that I made and just put in a less intrusive 1" x 1" board, glued and screwed.  This gives me a completely flat area where the crossover goes.

Ok, now we can work on that big outer loop.

Here I had set the risers to the correct measurement per my plans.  The riser on the back right is noticeably lower than the roadbed, which is a big springy-er than I expected.  No matter, we'll pull it down and fasten it.

I'm using 1 5/8" drywall screws to mount the roadbed to the risers.

I carefully adjust the riser on the right hand side to the proper level.

Risers conduct sound.  To keep the noise level down I put a blob of caulk between the roadbed and riser, and don't quite screw the roadbed down all the way.  This minimizes the noise and allows the roadbed to settle in its natural position, which is usually banked.

Next, I secured the far end of the loop to the proper height.

The middle riser is a comprise of lifting the riser and lowering the roadbed.  While this looks like a steep ramp in the photo, it is within the parameters of the layout.

There!  Progress is coming along nicely!

Getting a little cluttered again, so we'll clean it up tonight.

A pink ball has found its way into the layout room, and I hear giggles.  Must be time to put the kids to bed.  Stay tuned, as we are going to get that airbrush booth working soon.

Wizdom:

1.  Don't fight the roadbed.  Work with its natural shape to make a nice rise.
2.  The best plans don't always work out with risers.  Use your "eye" to check for a smooth lift.
3.  You don't have to always use a riser.  Sometimes a simple block of wood will do.

080 The Navajo Mining Railway - Installing Risers on the Curves

This is one of the trickier parts of building the layout, installing the curves with risers.  Cookie cutter method has one major drawback.  The curves are "springy" and like to bank naturally.  This causes problems when you are trying to install the "supposedly straight" risers.

Before I got started, I checked all the risers that I made and sanded the tops flat and smooth.  Then, I inserted the risers at the ends of the curves at 1.5" high, with 1.5" being measured from our constant zero point which is the top of the section joists, going to the top of the roadbed section.  It is key that you keep and know your zero point throughout the installation of the roadbed.  I thought that 1" might be a bit steep when calculated out...

1" rise (1.5" - .5" high on plywood) over a 21" run = 4.76% grade.

And that is steep, but not too steep.  Still, I'll probably drop it back to 1" high roadbed.

1/2" rise over a 21" run = 2.4% grade.  This is much more acceptable and realistic looking.

Here is the riser set at 1.5" and from this photo you can see the racking or curving of the plywood.  I've got a bigger problem here than the plywood.  The riser is right where the angle brace that supports the benchwork is located.  Since we are on a joint between sections I can't go on the other side.  I'll have to noodle this problem.  Ideas welcomed!

The 1.5" looks ok here, and probably would be, but I'm going to drop it down.

The outer curve goes to the lop level.  The clearance must be 3.5" at minimum for On30, and this riser is set at 4.5" which is too high.  We'll take it down a notch.

When putting in risers I always clamp the risers in and leave them for a day or two to let the curve of the plywood relax.  The riser in the back is the right height, but the roadbed is rising above it naturally.

Here you can see one of the risers close up and well mounted, with two others clamped in the back.

The riser top is level but the roadbed wants to spring toward the middle.

After some minor adjustments the curve is looking more natural.  Splitting the Rise is where you start off with the tracks at a level above zero, and then lower one track while raising the other track.  This allows for an overpass in a much shorter distance.

This square has a handy level on it.  I can tell how high the track is, and how flat it is.  A curve can lead to a tilted roadbed if you are not careful.

We'll let these sit overnight while I go find a wye, and then come back and adjust them.  We also have to figure out what to do with the angle brace.  Always problems to solve!  Or opportunities!

Wizdom:

1.  Cookie cutter roadbed curves have a tendency to rack or twist, so special care is needed during installation.
2.  Grades are calculated by this formula:  RISE/RUN and be sure both numbers are in the same measurement such as inches.
3.  Grades should preferably be about 2-3% in HO or On30, and not to exceed 4% except in a very short distance.  Even some of the shortest trains can pull up a 4% grade without modification.

079 The Navajo Mining Railway - Prepping to Lift the Curve

Normally on the weekend I get a little more time to work on the layout, but Christmas keeps us busy along with Taylor's basketball games (we won 22-2) and parties.  But I did squeak in some time!

I need to cut the gaps between the sections so that I can mount the curve.

Below you can see where the two sections meet.  I'll grab a straight edge and draw a line for sawing.

There are a lot of lines on this board, so to keep from making a mistake, I draw a little "tick" mark on the side of the line here and there.

Carefully I remove the big section and slide it out where I can cut it safely.  It's about 5 degrees outside here in Utah, and the garage is a balmy 19 degrees, so I'll just eat the dust and saw it in the basement.

I have a reciprocating saw...but it never gives anything back.  We'll use it and a pair of safety glasses.

Oh, before I forget!  Thank you Super Thayne 13 the Viking for giving me a box of Scotchlok connectors for wiring my railroad!  They will come in handy.  I visited Thayne early today to discuss the placement of a turnout on his layout.  Always fun to see Thayne.

There!  Lots of little pieces.  Each piece has a letter that corresponds to the big curve piece so that I can easily put them back together.

Using a coarse sanding block, I sand the cut edge in all directions.

We're about to start heavy construction, so I brought some things down from the shop.  It is very cold out there so I don't want to make too many trips.  Here are the screws I'll use for mounting the risers.

I'll also need my handy Kobalt ratchet screwdriver with an assortment of bits.

We'll use the counter sink and screwdriver combo for the cordless drill.

I double check the positioning of the curve section another time, and then fasten it down by countersinking and installing two 1 5/8 drywall screws directly into the framework of the section.  This lines up with the red line (above) that marks its place on the section.

Next, I'll test fit the #5 left hand turnout.  This isn't going to work.  So I've got a choice, either find a tight wye turnout, or hand lay it.  This turnout is in a very bad spot for hand laying, so I'll try my luck at the hobby shop tomorrow.

I need to mount a plywood board across the gap, so I'll need a "riser" of sorts to hold the one end.  Using a 1x1 Hemolock moulding I cut a 5" section and countersink it for screws.

Don't leave valuable turnouts on the work area!  They are delicate and expensive.  Carefully put it somewhere safe, which for me, is on the mantle.

Using glue and a cordless screwdriver, I mount the block so that its top is level with the bottom of the plywood.

In the cold shop I found the remaining 5" board and cut it to 19.5" and fit it into the gap.  After countersinking and screwing, I thoroughly sanded it flat.

The flat area here needs to be stable as there will be a turnout here that is not reachable.  I'll go the extra mile and put in another board below the track, then I'll screw the roadbed to this block and make it very durable.

The plan now is to make risers for later installation.  I always try to do these several at a time.  We count them up.

So that I minimize mistakes due to my lack of an ability to remember anything with children in the house, I right down my cut list, put on my coat, and head to the shop and my chop saw.

I come back 10 minutes later with a box of blocks!

Using my cut list I layout all the risers that I need.  There are:

• 3 each 4" risers at 1.5" wide
• 3 each 7" risers at 1.5" wide
• 2 each 4" risers at 7" wide

One by one I carefully square them up and glue them with Elmer's Wood Glue.  This is a strong enough bond for them.

Each block is fitted, the extra glue wiped off if any, and left to dry.

Once these have about 24 hours to cure thoroughly, we'll get out the clamps and start putting in the curve.

Comments?  Ideas?  Suggestions?  Please post a comment below!

Wizdom:

1.  Sanding wood prevents painful splinters
2.  Using wood glue often gives you a bond strong enough that you don't need screws or nails
3.  Build a ton of risers at a time, and make them slightly longer than you need.  You can trim them later.