098 The Navajo Mining Railway - Painting the Depot

The depot is not that old, but has been baking in the southern Utah desert for some time.  Paint doesn't hold up well in the bright sun and intense heat.  That is the effect we are after.

I fire up the airbrush booth.  We're going to shoot two colors today; depot buff and roof brown.  The window castings are the roof brown parts.

My little compressor is purring like a kitten.  I purchased it from Harbor Freight about 10 years ago, and its worked flawlessly.

We'll be using the new Model H today, Paasche's long time heavy duty airbrush.  When you buy your first one, this should be what you get.

I moved my airbrush holder down to the table and installed the airbrush with a color cup.

Using acrylic roof brown I gave the castings a good coating.  Actually I gave them about 10 light coatings all sprayed from different angles.  I'll put these aside to dry.

After a quick brush cleanout with water, I put on the color jar since I'm going to use a lot more paint for the depot sides.  I'm using Floquil Depot Buff, a solvent paint.  Yes, there is a fireplace with a pilot light right behind me, but we won't spray enough solvent to blow up the house.

Gently and slowly I paint the depot sides.  I don't want them heavily covered except at the top where the roof line will protect the wood siding from the sun.  The roof is only painted where the underneath will be exposed.

While that dries my friend Mark and his son Eric come over.  We discuss the finer points of fuselage assembly on a Corsair by Revell.  Its great fun to share the hobby with friends, especially the young ones!  I'll spend all the time with him he needs.

I retape and flip all the casting over, and shoot them again several times.

We'll set these aside to dry for 24 hours.

What a mess!  That is the only thing I don't like about airbrushing.  Generally I save up a bunch of projects and do them all at once.

I gun the sides again and wrap up for the day.

The airbrush gets a bath in the ultrasonic cleaner, as do all the associated parts.  Next time...we assemble the walls!

097 The Navajo Mining Railway - Finish Shakes and Get Ready To Paint the Depot

Let's finish up the shakes now that I'm back from a week long trip.  I'm so far behind!

Chop, chop, chop.  Almost done!  Just a few more boards to go.

There!  That is what about 640 O-scale shakes look like.  But we don't need them bright white!

I grab the old stand by black boot dye and alcohol mix, put everything in a tray and start dying.

I drop all the shakes in a shallow pan and add the dye, and stir until done.

Using an old pair of tweezers I hoist them out and put them on a paper towel to dry.

Even when using just one color dye, the shakes all take own their own color due to the density of the wood used in the stir sticks.

Once the liquid is off the shingles and absorbed in the paper towel, I put them in a paper plate to finish drying.  I'll stir them several times.

Next, we need to fit the wall sections to make sure they will go together well.

The bottom of this one has a bit of a problem.  I cut the support just a little too long.

Here you can see the extra length.  I cut it off with a fresh razor blade and sanded it smooth wit a fine sanding block.  Each wall section was checked and sanded to fit.

There will be a corner board that goes in this slot.  I checked it carefully to make sure I have a good fit.

Each corner is checked and marked with a corresponding letter so that I know which way to assemble the walls.

There!  Sanded, smooth and perfectly fit.

Now to prep the walls for painting.  We're almost done!  I will use rubber cement to spot cover areas of the wall where I want pealing paint.

Normally I use a dollar store throw away brush for this step.

Using the brush I dab on small amounts of rubber cement here and there.  Once it dries I'll paint over it, then remove it with a rubber eraser.  This will give the effect of peeling paint, and will show the weathered wood.

Let's prepare the windows and doors.  Using a sheet of cardboard that I use for painting, I'll affix the detail parts to it for airbrushing.

I use Scotch brand double sided tape, or masking tape put into a loop and pressed on to the cardboard.

I stuck all the windows and doors (being careful to count and make sure I had all of them) on to the tape with their back side out for painting.   After the first coat, I'll turn them over and paint the front side.

There!  I have paints, and paintable parts.  Next stop...the airbrush booth!

Airbrush Training at Scott's Basement

My friend Mark and his son Eric are budding model builders, as is my daughter Taylor.  They have all been very interested in learning how to airbrush, so on New Year's Eve I brought them down to the basement for some hands on experience.

Taylor and I set up a large, heavy table in the basement and equipped it with airbruses, tape, paint, models, gloves, masks and other tools.

Eric here likes to build rockets and airplanes.  Doesn't matter to me...sooner or later we'll convert him to trains when he realizes the planes don't move!

We hooked up the compressor and got out the brand new Paasche Model H external mix single action brush.  After some training on how to paint, we washed and dried several models and each took a turn giving it a coat of paint.  Mark is going to buy one for them to use.

Sorry I didn't take more pictures.  It was a holiday and we just wanted to have fun.

Wizdom:

1.  If you don't know how to do something, such as airbrushing, just ask someone that does know to show you how.
2.  Actually doing it will help get rid of fears and anxiety about airbrushing.  Get your hands dirty!
3.  You don't need a fancy booth or expensive dual action, internal mix brush to get started.  Keep it simple!

092 The Navajo Mining Railway - Airbrush Cabinet Vent

WARNING:  THIS PROJECT DID NOT WORK.  DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS EXCEPT AS A HOW-NOT-TO-DO-THIS PROJECT!  YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!

I needed to hook up my air brush cabinet.  It is Christmas Time, which means we've spent a lot of cash on presents, so I don't have $150 lying around to put in a vent.  Let's try to do it on the cheap!  Actually the real problems are:

1.  My basement area is just too small until we buy a new house...working on it.
2.  I don't have a place in my shop for the air brush cabinet
3.  I don't want to spend $150 more on the airbrush cabinet
4.  I don't have enough uninterrupted time today to do this right.

After searching the stores for a higher velocity bathroom fan, I did find this.  It is an Inductor air mover.  I don't paint with solvent paints, so this in line air mover might just work.  It is rated for 160 cfm to 250 cfm.  This is a lot more than the noisy bathroom fans!

Here is a look inside the 6" pipe.  The fan wires up to 120 volt and is very secure, and after a test...it is very quiet!

Here is the window where I plan to use to vent the fumes. This is a basement window that gets good natural draw out...perfect.  It is under the layout, so it will not be seen.

Here is the airbrush cabinet that I made over three years ago.  It has never been used.  The light had been missing for some time, and I just recently found it.

The rear of the airbrush cabinet is a 6" vent...perfect.

Using painter's caulk, I heavily caulked and sealed the vent.

The window will take a 23" by 14" plate for the vent.  Using a small piece of 3/8" plywood, I cut the board.

After test fitting in the window, I trimmed a little more off.  The next steps were not photographed because I was up in the garage, and it was very cold...so I wanted to finish as quickly as possible.  Essentially what I did was cut a hole in the plywood, and mount the fan.  Then I build a box around the fan assembly to protect it and to hold the wiring.

Here I am wiring a SPST switch and adding a power cord.  The box is made of 3/8" plywood using glue and 1" brads.

I put two handles on either side of the box to make it easier to move in and out of the window.  The initial tests of the fan draw were disappointing.  This is no where near 160 cfm...probably more like 70 cfm.

I connected the duct work to the cabinet and the vent and hit the switch.  Oh, this is not good.

I gave it the match test.  Essentially you light a match in the cabinet and there should be enough draw to pull the flame to the back of the cabinet, but not quite blow out the light.  Or, you can blow it out and watch the smoke drift to the back.  Neither happened.

DARN IT!!!!

Now I'm out about $30 and STILL have to build a proper vent.  That sucks.

WIZDOM:

1.  Sometimes cutting corners doesn't work.  Stick with tried and true methods when money is involved.
2.  Test the vent fan thoroughly before installing it.
3.  If you don't have time to work on something properly...just wait until you do have time.

Cheap and Indestructible Airbrush Cabinet

When I was fifteen years old I worked for Piedmont Division’s Dave Muller in his hobby shop and spent most of my time painting locomotives and cars.  His airbrush booth was small and lacked both ventilation and proper filtering.  Being young and broke I had to build my dream airbrush booth out of materials I had around the house.  What I build is still being used today and has seen over 1,000 trains pass through.  Here’s how to build a cheap and indestructible airbrush cabinet.

The cabinet rests on a home-made 2 x 4 stand.  You can also sit it on a table, or on saw horses.  You don’t have to spend a lot of money to have a good cabinet.  Click on photo to enlarge.

The benefits of this airbrush cabinet are many.  First, it is very strong and can take a beating.  Most of the galvanized metal cabinets will dent and bend, and the plastic cabinets warp and disintegrate.  Secondly, this cabinet has both incandescent and fluorescent lighting fixtures so that you can paint your model to appear color-correct under the proper lighting.  The third feature is the dual exhaust fans that allow you the proper blend of air current and filtration.  Solvent based paints require more air current and fume removal, where as water-based paint pigments will move around in the heavy air currents.  A forth reason to build your own is cost.  You can build one for a fraction of the cost of a hobby shop model using parts that you can find around the house. The fifth and most important benefit is that you can build it to the size you need.  Most over-the-counter spray booths are tiny and don’t give you enough room to work, especially with large models. 

The opening in the front of the cabinet can be as tall and as wide as you want to make it.  Think about what would be the largest object you would ever paint, and then add six inches to either side.

Construction of the cabinet consists of 2” x 2” and 1” x 4” board stock, some old barn siding plywood, and some ¼ inch hardwood and Masonite.  Use what you have laying around.  There is no need to make it pretty, just make it work!  Using the diagram, correct the dimensions to your desired size.  I cut my 2 x 2 stock to 29 inches and using the plywood outside, made a simple box.  Using the hardboard, I made the internal box for the bottom and left and right sides.  After ripping some 2 x 2’s to 1 x 2’s I made a simple frame to hold a 16” x 20” furnace filter.  Try to use the same filters that you use in your house if you can so you don’t have to buy anything.  Fix the frame so that the filter drops in from the top.

The glass sits on top of the wood and is sealed with caulk.  All other openings are sealed with sheet foam to give the fans the best draw.

The filter drops in from the top, then is sealed with some old foam packing that I found.  This keeps the air flow moving into the fans and keeps dangerous flammable fumes out of the lighting system.  Using some 1x4’s I made a frame for the top that holds the sheet of ½ plywood to which is attached the lighting.  Using the wiring diagram, mount the fixtures and run the wiring in between the outer wall and the inner painting chamber.   Be sure to leave enough room between the lights and the paint chamber for the glass.

You can now cut out the front opening of the painting chamber, and even cut a space for a drawer and a removable electrical switch panel.

I chose to make my wiring panel removable from the front in case I wanted to modify it or if I spilled paint on the switches and they had to be replaced.  The drawer was something I found in an old cabinet and the hole was cut to fit.  Since it is very small it did not need runners or guides.  It is just enough to hold my Aztec case and the extra bottles. 

Here you can see the twin fan exhaust ports

Slip on the dryer vent hoses and you are ready to paint.

The twin fans are wired separately in order to control air flow.  You can turn on either or both as you wish.  IMPORTANT: make sure the fans are brushless AC fans.  You don’t want an explosion while using flammable paints.  Mine are 4 inch fans from an old computer case.  I cut two circles out of the back of the box and mounted them there.  Over the fan I put two galvanized metal heat duct reducers that I bought for a buck each at a hardware store.  Using duct tape I sealed the connection.  I found some used clothes dryer vent hose that I attach to the hoses on both ports when needed and drop them out a nearby window for external ventilation.  They are not used for water-based paints, only solvents or when something is drying and I need air current to the outside. Don’t use too much hose as you don’t want the fumes to gather in the hose causing a hazard.  Use just enough to get the vapors outside.

The last step is to mount a sheet of cut glass over the top of the paint chamber, just under the lights.  I sealed the glass with caulk so that fumes would not creep into the electrical circuitry.  After this you can use the caulk to seal all crevices in the paint chamber and around the filter housing.  Your last step is to paint the inside paint chamber white so that it better reflects the light.  The glass above can be cleaned with a cloth and solvent if necessary.

Feel free to customize your design as you wish.  Just keep in mind that if you are using solvent paints that you don’t want any fumes in the electrical portion of the paint booth and you want to draw them away from your face as quickly as possible.  My estimate is that you can build this unit for about $75 or less depending on what resources you already have.  An old lamp is a good source for incandescent lights.  Fluorescent fixtures are $9 each at discount stores.  The switches that I used were from an old computer system and the wire was a broken extension cord.  Replace the filter once a year and keep the glass in the paint chamber clean.  Be safe and enjoy your new airbrush cabinet, as I have enjoyed mine for 23 years.

Ed Note: I wrote this back in 2000.  I just happened to see this airbrush cabinet again a few months ago.  I gave it to a friend when I built my new shop (and a bigger cabinet) and its still in use!