Friday, March 26, 2010

#001 07 Clear Creek Timber Howe Truss Bridge - The Drawings

As I'm doing this one I thought I'd blog about HOW I do a project, from beginning to end.  Magazine articles generally can't cover 100% of a project because it would turn into a book.  Since I'm still sick with bronchitis the only thing I can do is write... here we go.

Step 1.  What do I want to build? 

I know I want to build a bridge.  While I need it for my AP Structures list, I also like wooden bridges and have always wanted to build one.  So this project is a wooden bridge.

Step 2.  What kind of bridge?

The bridge has to be something interesting and challenging, otherwise I'll lose interest and it will never be completed.  It also has to be able of scoring 87.5 points for an AP Merit Award in an NMRA judging.  This means it has to be rather complex.  A trestle might accomplish this, but I've built lots of trestles.  I need something more difficult.

Step 3.  Search for a prototype.

All modeling should start with the prototype.  Many models that I have seen have been built from seeing other models!  While I'm all for freelancing and imagination, to really score Merit Award points you should pick a good prototype.  To me, reproducing something that exists (existed) is the most challenging of all.

Having a good home library of railroad books is a blessing.  I have a library room with four large bookcases fill with train books, a comfy leather chair and a good light.  A large stack of books will be pulled off the shelf and I'll start looking at pictures.  For a bridge with a lot of character I often turn to the narrow gauge railroads who often had to build with what they had.  One of my favorite books is Up Clear Creek on the Narrow Gauge by Harry Brunk, a professional illustrator and artist.  His sketches are fantastic and he is a model builder, so the information for modeling is usually all there.

While browsing through the book (it is actually a lengthy collection of his famous magazine articles) I found just the bridge I'm looking for.  The Colorado & Southern Railroad had a wooden (timber) Howe truss bridge spanning Clear Creek in the Clear Creek Canyon.  See the picture below.


Step 4.  Evaluate the Prototype as a Model

Now that I might have a prototype I give it the acid test, which is a battery of questions in order to decide if I'm going to build it or not.


A.  Do I like it enough to spend hours constructing it?  Yes.  While it is complex looking, it is more repetitive than difficult.  It is attractive and interesting.

B.  Can I use it on my layout?  Yes.  Generally I don't build things that I can't use on my layout.  I used to build structures for pay and put myself through school doing it, but no longer.  Each piece that I construct has to be either for the layout or to build my skills for a bigger project in the near future.

C.  Can I build it?  Yes.  This is the real test.  Is my ego bigger than my skills?  In this case no, so I have a good chance at success.  There are a lot of pieces, but not anything requiring skills I don't have.  I did find on line other modelers that successfully built this bridge, which is another indicator of success.

D.  Do I have enough information?  Yes.  This is something I always ask.  Sometimes one photo is enough.  This one is a little more difficult.  While Harry gave us some nice drawings, they are NOT plans, which is different.  Some of the key dimensions are unknown, such as the length and height of the bridge.  Harry even admits that if you want a more accurate bridge, you may have to go back to the photos.  My next step is to jump on the computer.  A few hours later I had more photographs and several shots of models of the bridge.  I even conversed with a fellow in the UK that built one and got some pointers from him.  The last step is to send off a request to the NMRA's Kalmbach Library for which I was rewarded with five pages of photos.  Yes, we can make drawings from this.

E.  Can I make a good set of construction drawings?  Yes.  I'm not talking magazine drawings but construction drawings.  These will allow me to cut materials accurately and assemble them in the proper fashion.  They can be as simple as graph paper sketchs or as complex as 3-D cad drawings.  In this case I need the extra points and will produce a set of 2-D Cad drawings.

F.  Are the materials needed readily available?  Yes.  Simple wood timbers and nut-bolt-washer castings, along with turnbuckles and wire.  All available by scratch or the local hobby shop, which is Trainmaster Models.

G.  Can I afford to build it?  Yes.  This is a VERY important question.  When you look at a kit vs. a stractbuilt project you often THINK that scratchbuilding is cheaper.  This is not the case in most projects.  A buck here, a buck there really adds up.  In this case I ran the numbers and don't believe that the cost will exceed $30.  Details are what you have to watch!

H.  How much time will it take?  20 hours.  Wow!  Really?  Actually it will take more than that.  For instance, just doing the research I've spent 5 hours and haven't even gotten a good start on the drawings.  Do I care?  No, but there are opportunity costs.  If I'm building this, I'm not building something else.

I.  What skills will I develop or learn?  Precision.  This is always good to ask yourself.  Every model should be a challenge in some way or other.  For this one I am trying to develop a higher level of precision.  Attention to the fine details is important as I progress on to more and more difficult projects.  The drilling of holes and making the angled supports uniformly straight is tricky, and may require the use of jigs for a higher level of precision.

With all those questions answered in a positive light, time to move on to the next step.

Step 5. Analyze the Prototype.  I've gotten the photos, sketches and documents related to the bridge.  I'm still missing some precise measurements, but we'll extrapolate them from the photos.  With large printouts of each document I carefully scan the model.  Using MS Word I've started a document to capture information.  That board is crooked, that board is broken, there are four bolts on this side, etc.  One thing I really noticed was the bridge foundation as one side is concrete and the other is build of crossties.  One of the tricky things is NOT looking at someone else's model for prototype information.  Wolfgang built a nice model, but he did it from sketches, not drawings, and some things don't look right.  I'd like a more precise model so I'm going to have to throw Harry's beautiful sketches out the window and draw a set of plans.

Step 6.  Determine how to build the model.  This is the step where we sit back and go "if I were going to provide this to the public as a kit, what would the kit look like and how would I build it?"  This is a very important step as a mistake here can cost you time and materials.  Still, no matter how well you do, you won't be able to do this perfectly, so do wait for perfection.

For the bridge, I see it as several components.  Each side is a component, the bottom is a component, and the track and ties are one component.  So we are looking at four sub-assemblies.  If I build the bridge supports, that is five.  Great!  This tells us how to build it.  The sides are identical, so we can build them in tandem.  The ties/rail can be built separately and then added to the model at the end.  The toughest part will be the bridge base, which can't be done until the sides are ready.  Ok, so we build the sides, then the base, then the supports and then add the track.  

Step 7.  Evaluate Drawings.  What drawings do I need?  Well, they should match the components listed above.  We'll need a side drawing (top and side), a bridge base, a track drawing and then the supports (two since they are different).  We'll do these in Cad since we'll want to get AP Points and because I'd like to share them with people who might want other scales.

Step 8.  Begin the Drawings.  This is where we lose people.  The armchair guys never get past this point.  But we are.  I've begun the drawings on 3rd Plan It Cad.  Not the best in the world, but what I happen to have and know.  Like other things, there are several steps here.

A.  Determine the overall dimensions of the model.  This is a problem right off the bat as I don't have a full length or height dimension.  Will have to extrapolate it.  Harry Brunk's drawing appears to be roughly 1/8" to the foot.  That makes the bridge 66'.  I have a picture with a man standing on the bridge.  It scales out to about 50'.  Big difference.  I'll have to work on this.  I'm also having trouble determining the angle of the supports.

Continued...




Thursday, March 25, 2010

AP Program Mentoring 015 Scott Perry - Bridge Over Troubled Waters

While at home laying in bed and coughing I've had plenty of time to plan and think. Tried working on models but the cough medicine makes it hard to focus.

The mail came today with my information from the wonderful NMRA Kalmbach Library. If you don't use this asset, you are REALLY missing out. Our researcher Thomas Mossbeck sent me a stack of photos of the Colorado & Southern's Clear Creek Canyon Timber Howe Truss Bridge. So nice to have good prototype photos sent to you for just and email and a $3.25 copying and postage fee. Especially when owning the books would have cost me $200.



I really got interested in this bridge from Harry Brunk's book called Up Clear Creek on the Narrow Gauge. It is one of the most fun books I have and is full of his fantastic pen & ink drawings. While not simple to build, it really lends itself to a great scractchbuilding project and has the potential to earn the points I need for an AP Structure. You gotta have one bridge.



Armed with photos and diagrams and Brunk's rough drawings I'll make a set of scale plans that I'll share with you soon. We'll build this to On30 standards and publish the work on my Okefenokee Railroad Blog since I'll probably use it on that railroad.

Wayne Wesolowski’s Sweet & Sour Weathering Solution

While attributed to Wesolowski, it is the invention of Wayne Hume.  The concoction first appeared in Railroad Model Craftsman (Jan 1986).  This is a solution for simulating rest and works fairly well.  I’ve used it on models where metal such as a nut/bolt/washer casting have rusted and have streaked onto the wood below.  You can also use it to highlight nail holes.

Here’s the recipe

  • One pint of white vinegar (5% acidity)
  • Steel wool pad (very fine, no soap, grade #0000)

Cut up the steel wool pad, or tear it up and put it in the vinegar.  Cap the bottle loosely so that it can breath and let it sit for several weeks.  When done the steel wool should be dissolved (you’ll have some in the bottle).

For steel gray wood, just soak the boards in the solution and dry them under a sheet of glass so they don’t warp. 

I’ll make some up sometime and get some photos.


Wednesday, March 24, 2010

AP Program Mentoring 014 Scott Perry - Building Again

Sorry to not have built anything in a couple of weeks.  I caught the flu and it turned into bronchitis.  I'm still out sick today and the only I can do is work on a model and cough.  We're back on the Doctor's office since I've been to the doctor three times in the past seven days.  (cough,cough).

Still trying to make AP progress, Coach Larry!

http://swamplayout.blogspot.com/2010/03/010-01-dr-banks-office-building-walls.html

Scott Perry

Monday, March 22, 2010

Building a Steam Locomotive from Scratch

A most amazing picture story of building a 4-4-0 locomotive from scratch!

http://members.shaw.ca/rene.gourley/loco.html

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Feeling Better - Getting Ready to Build!

I am still not 100% from having the flu, but I do feel better.  Steve-Bay came over today and I cleaned up the shop while we chatted.  Looking much better now!

I set up the projects in the shop:

1.  Finish the pier (drill holes, mount NBW's, add shack and crane, final assembly, add ocean)
2.  Build a turnout for AP judging
3.  Build the Dr's Office in O - set up at the computer in my office
4.  Finish the O scale engine shed
5.  Build the scenery base on sections 3 & 4 of the Dixie Central (Sunday)

Lot's to do!!!

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

AP Program Mentoring 013 Scott Perry - Judging Criteria

Thanks to my new best friend Mark Evans...here are the judging criteria for Civil track elements!

http://www.nmra.org/education/achievement/pdf/2006-jf-mrec.pdf

Mark also added...


More to help answer your question -
Construction = quality of the work you did on the item of track work. Clean solder joints, ties now cracked or broken, rail has clean cuts......
Detail - How much detail is there - if the prototype had 4 spikes per tie then the model would. If you only do 1 spike per tie then that seems to me to be less detail than more. NBW castings on joint bars ? You get the idea
Conformity - does your track item look like the real thing - doesn't matter what the real thing is but have photos so the judges can see what you were trying to recreate in miniature.
Finish/Lettering - Ties stained the right color (or not)  - rail weathered per the prototype
Scratch Building - Cut ties from a tree or a piece of stripwood versus using laser cut ties. I actually scratch built my harp switch stands. This one can be tougher than the above.
Food for thought
Mark

And some great advice from Bruce Wilson...

Scott:

The times I have judged civil we basically followed what was written

in the requirements and what is shown on the Judging Sheet.

The first thing we did was check everything with an NMRA Track Gauge

to make sure all clearances were correct. The looked at the pieces
for neatness of work how complex was the piece etc. Were we able to
run a locomotive through all possible routes. Remember to have
enough track for the loco beyond the piece you are modelling. You
will have to make sure the wiring is correct as well (Wait there a
minute! Sounds like part of the requirements for Electrical Part 2
doesn't it? You can use your three Civil examples for electrical as well)

Next we looked at the overall details such as were tie plates added,

bolt details on the frog, fish plates, spikes, stretcher bar details,
switch machines or hand throws etc. Look at the P87 stores site to
see some great detail.

Did the modeler get it right with respect to following the

prototype. Some of the ones we judged provided photos of what they
were trying to reproduce

Finish. Ties stained, rails weathered, grease around moving points,

ballasted, etc. Does it look real.

How much did the modeler build from scratch. Look at was is allowed

and not allowed. Cutting ties from stock will get higher points, you
can make your own spikes etc.

Remember you only need to build three examples that must get 87 1/2

so it makes sense to go all out with the details. Also remember the
three you build do not have to be on your layout but can be on separate boards

Hope this is of some help.


-

Bruce Wilson
Barrie, Ontario


My thoughts...

Now having read the judging form, here's what I'm thinking.  First, like I always do, I score the model before I start building it.  Here's what I came up with.


Not good.  Just barely getting to 87.5.  Looks like I needs a new strategy.  I'm avoiding a lot of added cost by not buying and adding detail.  I like Mark's idea of a scratchbuilt swithstand.  Cutting my own ties is easy, too.  For some really good points I could etch some tie plates.  Either way, I've got to put on more detail.

(cough, cough)

I'm still sick, so I'm headed to bed.